The Illustrated London News

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Echoes of the Week

The Illustrated London News, vol. 46, no. 1299, p. 86.

January 28, 1865


...Talking of companies (limited), we hear that a body of gentlemen, long resident in, or acquainted with, or interested in the United States, are about to try in London an experiment which in New York has, of late years, met with triumphant success. It isn't tramways; it isn't volunteer fire companies; it isn't paper currency. But what will our readers think of a "London 'Delmonico' Company" (limited)? Delmonico's at New York is simply the best and most splendid restaurant in the world. There is nothing in Paris to beat it; there is nothing in London, with all its plethora of hotels and dining-rooms, to equal it. Delmonico's is a combination of the Trois Frères, the Maison Dorée, Philippe's (Rue Montorgueil), Bignon's, the Trafalgar at Greenwich, the Star and Garter at Richmond, the Hotel de Russie at Frankfort, Florian's at Venice, the Ship and Turtle, Leadenhall-street, Darba's at St. Petersburg, and the dining-rooms of the best Pall-mall clubs. You may dine at Delmonico's for a dollar, and for a party of eight your bill may come to a thousand dollars--precisely as you please. You may be served off gold, and have pearls dissolved in your sauterne if you choose. The projected "London 'Delmonico' Company" will of course appeal chiefly to the wealthiest and moat luxurious classes. The locale will be a splendid mansion at the West End, the furniture will be gorgeous, the waiters irreproachable, the cookery simply perfection, the wines:--ne m'en parlez pas. The servants will be superb in plush and silk stockings; and for a diner d'élîte the major-domo will bring in the first dish with a silver chain round his neck and a sword by his side, according to the grand old traditions of the days of Ude, and Carême, and D'Ouix. The experiment is a bold one; but what may not be tried in London the stupendous?

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